Creating a torso body map no seam allowance and no ease

Jen A

Hi Lori, I would like to create a "body map" torso length sloper. It would be a purely body measurements with no ease anywhere or seam allowances (or darts etc) included. I saw someone on YouTube using one to line up against patterns not only to determine size but also to adjust shoulder slope, waist position etc. I was wondering if you could suggest one of the slopers available and/or if something like that might be available in the future? A torso knit sloper with sleeves possibly? I attached a couple of screenshots of what they look like from that video. Thank you!

Lori

Jen A
I'm not sure I understand the point of this. You are supposed to make a sloper and then use that to resize a pattern that you purchase? If the green patterns in your images have no darts, then these would never fit in the bust (assuming these are for someone with a bust). These would only work if they are made for knits, which have virtually no shaping at all.

Sorry, I just don't get it. I can take a look at the video, if you want to share the URL. I think the better option is to use a purchased pattern or image as inspiration and re-create the design using a Patternmaker Pro sloper as the basis in the Fashioner. Then you know it would fit.

Jen A

Yes you can place it on top of the digital pattern in Affinity Designer (or similar) and adjust fit to your liking on shoulders, waist etc. also determine if the ease in the pattern is too little or too much and adjust it in or out. Yes for someone with a bust and yes knits are primarily what I am thinking of. The sloper would be purely a digital representation of the measurements with no design features, ease or seam allowances. I added the link, I hope she doesn't mind that I did that 😬

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sB6l_l2tCr0

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sB6l_l2tCr0]

Lori

Jen A
Don't worry, it's a public video on YouTube and you can share those links without concern. I watched the video. I guess I don't understand why you would do this. You can make all kinds of knit tops, pants and dresses using Patternmaker Pro and know they will fit. Why would you want to go to this much work to adjust a ready-wear sized pattern that you have to pay for?

Also, there are some issues with this process. You didn't design the pattern you are adjusting so you have no idea of how it was drafted. You don't know if there is supposed to be ease or where that ease is. Using a basic block / sloper to adjust it is not going to create an end pattern that looks anything like the image they provided when you bought it.

I understand that people take desperate measures to get patterns to fit. I used to be one of those people and that's why I created Patternmaker Pro.

But, to just answer your question pattern #158 Knit Bodice Sloper would work. It has no ease. Just make sure you keep the variable knit fabric stretch to minimal and you should be fine. The pattern does have a seam allowance, but I mark them on the pattern so you can use the inside black pattern outline and ignore the blue seam allowance.

The nice person who made that video is using software she has to pay for, so I left a comment introducing her to Patternmaker Pro. Maybe she'll make some videos using our software.

Jen A

Ok thank you. She is actually the one who pointed me to Patternmaker pro.

Lori

Jen A
Hmmm. That's interesting. Thanks for sharing all the info.

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